Cruising
the Baltic from Stockholm to Helsinki
Section I: Stockholm to Mariehamn |
Day 1 - Small island in the Västra Trälhavsgrund Day 2 - Island, south of Träskö-Storö, with lunch stop on Grinda Day 6 - Mariehamn, Åland We launched the boats in
Åkersberga, just north of Stockholm, on the
23rd of June, the same day a mighty high-pressure system parked itself
over
Scandinavia. This was both a good and bad omen. Good because we had two
weeks
of sun and hot weather, with weak to moderate winds. Bad, because
instead of
the usual west to south-westerly winds (that we had promised Martin and
Ralph
for the trip!), we had to beat into a headwind almost every day the
high
pressure prevailed.
The
stowing of all the items of equipment into the boats was more rushed
than
intended, as the journey to the launch site took rather longer than
planned.
The crew aboard the yacht, waiting for a crane to step their mast,
seemed to
watch in awe as all our gear slowly disappeared into our seemingly
Tardis-like
Wayfarers.
...Martin at the first stage of preparing his boat Sunny-Side-Up for the cruise. And yes, space was found somewhere in the boat for every item of equipment on the edge of the launch slipway! Ralph secures the last items of
equipment aboard Spree Lady. The removal
of the rear buoyancy tank in the latest
Marks of Wayfarer provides a much larger area of floor space for sleeping. - click here for larger image It was around 8 p.m. by the time we had finished packing all our gear in the boats, and hardly a breath of wind could be felt. We used our 2 HP engines to motor out to the Västra Trälhavsgrund, where we had our first night's camp. We were under way, even if the first leg was very short. Having outboard motors to be able to quickly cover the distance required was a considerable bonus. - click here for larger image Next day, a fresh, gusty north-easterly wind was blowing. We sailed close hauled eastwards, rounded the Grindö and tacked up to the Träsköfjärden with a reef in the main. Both
photos are taken at our overnight anchorage of Svartlöga. Most of
the ideal landing places
had summer houses, which barred us from stopping there. - click here for larger image We did ask
for permission, well away from a residence on one small
island, but were refused.
It was Sten who later noticed this most ideal of places to anchor. - click here for larger image With these boats, it is no problem to find a convenient place to stop for the night - we could sail into small coves, where no other boats can get to. In the evening, we sat on a rock, south of the Träskö-Storö, enjoying the sunset and celebrated the good start of our adventure with a toast of a tot of whisky. We found an ideal anchorage in the
lagoon-like centre of a cluster of
small islands south Träskö-Storö.
It soon
became a ritual to celebrate each day's successful sail with a
tot of whisky. - click here for
larger image
We sailed through the Stockholm archipelago, passed Svartlöga and came to Rödlöga (one of the few islands with a small community and a local shop), and where girls at the café served lovely sandwiches with smoked salmon. Rödlöga
was the only island on the whole trip which had a small local
community. The homes on
all the other islands were only weekend or summer holiday residences. - click here for larger image Using the Community water pump to
re-stock our water supply. The 6-pint
milk bottles, being the only size of additional water
container for which I could a convenient storage space in my boat, proved to be the most handy of all the various water containers taken. Although we had stowed virtually all we
needed for a week-long cruise
to Mariehamn, it proved useful to re-stock
with some fresh provisions from the local shop. Also most welcome was a fine lunch served up for us at the local café. We sailed on to Norrpada in the Söderarm archipelago, with the wind against us all the way. Our normal day's schedule followed a usual routine: breakfast at around 7.30, start sailing at 10.00, lunch on a suitable island at 13.00, sailing from 14.00 to 17.00. With a little variation in times, we sailed about six hours, covering around 20 nm each day. The sailing couldn't have been more
idyllic.
The views in the archipelago were
stunning.
When we had found a good night's anchorage, Åke and I put up the land tent and the Englishmen raised their boom tents. It did not take long after supper until we fell asleep, tired after a day's sailing. As can be seen from the photo above,
this side of the inlet was
completely sheltered from
the prevailing wind. - click here for larger image
On Saturday the 27th of June, we stopped early in the afternoon on a little island southwest of the Hamnö, the last of the group of islands before our 30nm open sea crossing to Finland. The lighthouse of Söderarm was close by, to the northeast of us. We had a magic evening on our little island, no wind at all, all alone, not a sound. The wind had been very gentle during the
day of our sail to our last
stopping point before Mariehamn. - click here for larger image
Next day, we planned to sail over to Åland. We were a little apprehensive before the crossing of the Ålands Hav. How wise was it to do offshore sailing in a dinghy? Ideally, it should not blow more than force 4 to be tolerable. Preferably, the wind would be behind - to balance the boat by sitting out on the rail for a full day in any sort of headwind would be hard. Sunday came without any wind at all. After two hours, a few weak gusts had moved us a few miles beyond the Söderarm lighthouse. We had to use the engines for the next two hours or more. The outboard (partially hidden by the
Red Ensign) is providing the only
propulsion through the water.
Then a light breeze came from northwest. The wind kept blowing, increasing slowly, and by the time we approached Åland, we were sailing on a nice broad reach towards the Malgrundet Lighthouse. We experienced an ideal breeze for the
last part of our crossing.
We wanted to enter Mariehamn on the east side, so we sailed to the bridge over the Nåtöströmmen, and lowered the masts. After raising the masts on the other side of the bridge, we used the motors to quickly reach our planned destination of a large campsite at Mariehamn. The site had a sandy beach, excellent for hauling out the boats. Åke and Sten had stayed at the
campsite in Mariehamn with their
families many years previously,
and it proved useful to know of this ideal landing point for our proposed two-day stop in main city of Åland. We were given permission to camp in our
boats on the beach, whilst Åke
and Sten pitched their tent on the grass.
It was certainly good to be able to use the facilities at the site, particularly the hot showers! We made the most of a relaxing 2-day stopover in Mariehamn - being the principal city of Åland (a group of islands, and a semi-independent part of Finland). Apart from an interesting tour around the tall-ship Pommern, we enjoyed 2 evening meals at excellent restaurants, and met up with a local family whom Martin knew - and who kindly assisted in the re-stocking of our whisky supply. We used the two-day stop in Mariehamn to take in more supplies; go on a sightseeing trip around the Pommern; and rest. Some Englishmen visiting Mariehamn saw the Red Ensigns on our boats and looked wide-eyed. They asked if we had sailed all the way from England. No, we hadn't, but they thought it was a good achievement to have sailed from Stockholm to Mariehamn. |
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