Al's introduction: Derwyn is one of Canada's best and most enthusiastic Wayfarer racers. He will introduce what he has done for us (below). His work filled about 12 pages of the February 1995 Whiffle, and what I have done here is split it up into several segments, the first of which follows this introduction.

November 13, 1994: Much of this material was taken from four great videos on Wayfarer sailing (available from the Canadian Wayfarer Association). These were prepared by Al Schönborn, W3854, (many times Canadian Champion and Class Coach) with the help of Mike McNamara. W8868, World Wayfarer Champion 1992 from UK.  Thanks to George Lake, W862, for lending me the set of videos. Further revisions have been made after "spying" on the Eastern Canada/USA fleets during regattas in the summer of 1994. Hope you find some of this helpful in sailing your Wayfarer. Any suggestions you may have for improving these notes would be appreciated. Contact me as shown below. Have fun & enjoy your sailing!

Derwyn Hughes W4615, 143 Silvercrest Crescent, Calgary, Alberta T3B 3T8

1. Hull

• smooth with no major imperfections
• clean fiberglass with fiberglass cleaner
• fill imperfections with epoxy and micro-balloons
• final sanding with 600 paper
• put extra effort into the first and last three feet of the hull

2. Rudder

• front edge must be vertical when in sailing position
• sides of the blade to be smooth and flat
• leading edge to be rounded into a parabolic shape
• shape leading edge to razor sharp for 1 inch above & below water line
• trailing edge to be tapered to a “V” shape (Al’s note: This is a good wood to make the wood core. In sanding the glass or epoxy covering, I try to give this edge an air foil shape, too. See also trailing edge of centreboard.)
• the back of the “V” is to be cut off flat about 1/8 inch wide
• tapering of rudder (chamfer) is not be more than 2 inches in from the edge (max. permitted by Class Rules)
• rudder fittings must be strong and well fastened.
• through-bolt fittings wherever possible.

3. Tiller

• must be close fit into rudder stock: no “play” - if necessary, put tape around the wood so that it just fits.
• rudder tie-down to be heavy, double shock cord (Al’s note: I like to use mostly 4-mil pre-stretch rope with a 6” loop of ¼” shock cord just before the end that goes around the hook under the tiller. I use a bowline to tie another 6” piece of 4-mil rope onto that loop. I then use that little piece of rope to drag the shock cord over the tiller hook. This holds the rudder down very well!)
• need a tiller extension with good grip (tape every 6”) – try “golfball” technology:  a golf ball fastened to the end of the tiller extension makes it easy to steer when hiked.

4. Centreboard

• sides of the blade to be smooth and flat
• leading edge to be rounded into a parabolic shape up to 2.5" in from the edge (max. allowed by Class Rules)
• trailing edge to be tapered to a “V” shape up to 2.5" in from aft edge (see also note on trailing edge or rudder)
• the back of the "V" is to be cut off flat about 1/8 inch wide
• when the CB is fully down, the leading edge must be raked slightly back so as to make an angle of no more than 83º (Class Rules)
• when fully down, the CB must extend down from the keel no more than 3’ 3 5/8” (Class Rules)

5. Mast & Rigging

a) spreaders

• length to be 20 inches from shroud to mast
• set angle so that distance between shrouds is 3' 2"
• angle the spreaders up slightly from mast to shrouds, hold in place with duct tape on the shrouds (Al’s note: the theory being that the spreader should bisect the angle made when the spreader pushes the shrouds outboard)
• if spreaders are adjustable, angle further forward (restricting mast bend) for strong winds and further back (allowing more mast bend) in light winds

b) shrouds

• Use adjustable stainless steel straps to fasten the shrouds to the hull. These are stronger, easier to adjust and more reliable than the bottle screws/turnbuckles.
• Check that all pins which fasten the shrouds and forestay to the mast and hull are well secured. Tape the curled wires (split or circular pins) which hold the pins in place to avoid accidental loss of a pin and resulting mast failure
• When under sail, the rig should have approx. 330 pounds of tension in the shrouds. This is set by varying the jib halyard tension. Since most people do not have a tension measurement device, simply increase jib halyard tension while sailing to windward until the leeward shroud is no longer slack. This will require a very tight jib halyard in strong wind and relatively little tension in light air.
• Jib halyard tension is controlled by either a Highfield lever or a magic box. The magic box is preferred since it is easier to adjust while sailing and has a wider control range. The magic box is either mounted on the mast or along the side or top of the centerboard housing.  If the magic box is on the CB housing pulling back on the halyard a block must be fixed behind the foot of the mast to prevent it from moving back too far thus creating excessive mast bend. (Al’s note: There are those who find such mast bend assistance quite useful to promote bend in light airs. Excessive bend in windier conditions can always be prevented by chocking and spreaders angled further forward.)

c) mast rake setup

• Tighten the jib halyard to put tension on the rig but not enough to cause mast bend.
• Fasten a tape measure to the main halyard and hoist to the top of the mast.
• Check the distance from the top of the mast to the bottom of the bridge created by the traveller bar over the transom opening for the tiller. This should be 23’ 6” (+/- ½”).
• Adjust the two shroud lengths evenly until the desired rake is set.  For shrouds with the adjusting plates, each hole change affects the measured mast rake by 2”. (Al’s note: Shroud plates with double rows of offset holes give 1” changes as you move diagonally up or down.)
• Check that the mast is perfectly vertical by measuring the distance from the top of the mast to each end of the traveller. This distance should ideally be the same to both sides. (Al’s note: A difference of up to ¼” is no big deal in my opinion!)
• Place plastic tubes over the shroud adjustment plates, or wrap with plastic sheet to protect the pins and prevent them from coming loose or tearing sails.

d) mast bend check

• Here, your Uncle Al will take the liberty to replace Derwyn’s suggestion which was: Tape cardboard to the side of the mast at the level of the spreaders.  Leave it pointing aft behind the mast with ½” graduations marked on it for 2 inches. Check that the spreader length and angle are set correctly. Tension the jib halyard for approx. 330 pounds tension on the shrouds. Tighten the main halyard from the top of the mast to the gooseneck. Appropriate mast bend results in the main halyard being out 1½” from the mast at the cardboard marker behind the spreaders.  Hence the mast has bent forward 1½” at the spreaders due to the tension on the jib halyard. Uncle Al’s note: The trouble with the above system is that it cannot take into account the additional bend caused by mainsheet and vang tension once you’re under sail in any kind of a breeze. My own invention is just as cheap as Derwyn’s but works under all conditions: Using indelible black magic marker, put four “inch-marks” on the luff of the sail at spreader height, starting at the luff rope. Fasten about 18-19’ of coloured whipping thread to/near the aft edge of the top of the mast. Tie a 6” loop of thin shock cord to the other end. The thread should be of such a length as to put some tension on the thread once the shock cord is looped around the gooseneck or its wingnut. We do this so that the thread runs down the starboard side of the mainsail. With this system, we can adjust mast bend (spreader angle mostly) out on the water before the race(s). We then sail close-hauled on starboard and see which inch-mark the thread passes. In medium airs, our mainsail has its max. draft nicely at 50% aft when we have 2-3” of mast bend. Other sails may be slightly different. I’m not good at judging stuff like draft position and sight up the sail using a little plastic gizmo called a Sailscope put out by North Sails as part of their North U. Fast Course which has a grid marked on it (see image below). (I bought a couple of these separately as spares from the North Sails loft in Toronto in the early 90's but am not sure if they're still available. The gentleman who designed the whole course is Dave Dellenbaugh who now publishes the Speed 'n' Smarts newsletter!)

• Lower mast bend can be partly limited by inserting wooden shims/chocks between the front of the mast and the slot in the foredeck. Encourage mast bend in light air and heavy air (no shims).  Discourage lower mast bend in medium air by inserting some shims.
• Pressure from the shims usually will damage the front of the mast.  This can be avoided by installing a protective sleeve around the mast.  The aluminum sleeve should extend from say 2 or 3 inches above the deck down to say 8 inches below the deck level.  Such a sleeve is available from Proctor Masts.  It redistributes the force over a wider area thus eliminating damage to the mast.
• Lower mast bend can also be limited by installing a U-shaped channel under the mast step.  As the mast bends, the foot travels aft along the channel. This travel can be limited by a bolt through the U channel. The amount of travel to allow is controversial.  Currently, I allow a max. of about 1½” of movement at the foot of the mast.

e) forestay setup

• The forestay primarily serves to hold up the mast when the jib is not in use.  When the jib is up and winds are strong, the rig tension is provided mainly by the jib halyard.
• When the wind is light, it is helpful to use the forestay to provide rig tension. This allows the jib luff to be kept looser thus facilitating some luff sag. Luff sag is built into each jib and it adds to the power of the sail.
• Forestay tension control can be provided by shortening the forestay by about a foot.  Install a small block on the foot of the forestay.  Install a block on the bow bracket.  Run a strong 4 mm pre-stretched line from the bow bracket up to the forestay block, back down to the block on the bow bracket, then along the deck, back to a jamb cleat near the mast. Install a short section of line from the bow bracket up to the forestay as a safety line in case the forestay control line breaks or comes undone.
• Keep some tension on the forestay even under medium and strong wind conditions so that it will be straight under all conditions of jib halyard tension.  This is very useful as a reference for checking sag of the luff of the jib.  Under most wind conditions, target for approx. 2 to 3” of sag between the middle of the jib luff and the forestay. This is set by adjusting the jib halyard tension.

f) miscellaneous mast issues

• Always use a mast head fly to help show the wind direction. Tape to the top of the mast with duct tape.  Extend as far above the mast as practical for clear air.
• Install shims between the sides of the mast and the opening through the deck as well as on the vertical supports just below the mast pivot bolt.  These shims help keep the mast from bending sideways.  Wood or plastic is fine or even use rubber from a hockey puck.
• Install a large ring on the front of the mast for hooking on the spinnaker pole.  It makes it much easier to connect and disconnect.
• File fine notches in the main and jib halyard blocks (Al’s note: ?????) and lubricate them regularly to insure that they turn freely under the loads imposed by the wire halyards.
• Install strips of black electrical tape where specified by the class rules on the mast and the boom. This will show the maximum allowable positions of the corners of the sails.

6. general boat & sail security

• Tape all pins & rings to prevent unexpected loosening or failure.  This also covers sharp ends which could rip a spinnaker.
• Cut off the ends of any bolts or screws to just the right length so as to prevent ripping of sails and minimize weight.
• Put on a little silicone sealer after assembly of nuts & bolts to prevent loosening and cover any sharp ends. Especially important if trailering for long distances. (Al’s note: If anyone should know about this, it’s Derwyn who, at least four times, has trailered W4615, Big Bird, 3321 km from Calgary to Toronto [and back, of course – another 3321 km])
• When sailing, securely fasten anything of value in the boat to minimize losses when you capsize.  Some net bags and Velcro straps are handy for this.
• Carry a small tool kit in a “floatable" container for on-the-water repairs.  (knife. duct tape, some light wire, spare pins (and rings to hold them in place), length of light line, needle nose pliers & adjustable wrench, pencil & sun tan lotion)  Fasten this kit to the boat.

Carry a large bailing bucket (say 20 liters) and tie it with a long enough line to reach anywhere in the boat.